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Wheel Alignment 101
PREFACE: This is very
basic article written to help educate the novice mechanic as well as all
vehicle owners about the basic terminologies and concepts of wheel
alignment.
In addition to this article,
there is a brief article HERE that will help you check for component wear
and aid in identifying defective steering and suspension parts on your
vehicle. This is not a complete list, but it will help you to identify
some of the basic problems and some of the most common wear items in the
steering and suspension systems.
Next to changing the
transmission filter and transmission fluid, wheel alignment is perhaps the
most neglected vehicle service on the face of the planet today. Until you
hit a curb, and major crater in the street, or another vehicle, almost
everyone puts off the yearly visit to the alignment shop unless they are
experiencing excessive tire wear. The fact of the matter is, a good
alignment is critical and can actually affect your vehicles performance.
If you don't believe this, sit down and watch an automobile race on TV
some day. A proper alignment provides the driver better cornering, better
fuel mileage and allows the car to be driven more safely on the race
track. It will do the same for your street car as well.
Worn suspension components
(springs, bushings, tie rods, ball joints, shocks, etc) not only effect
the way your car handles, they are also VERY hazardous on any car. Worn
components can get you or someone else hurt or killed!!!!
The following definitions
will help you better understand how your suspension and steering works and
why an alignment is important to your car and to your safety.
TOE:
The terms that you generally hear are: "TOE
IN" or "TOE OUT".
TOE IN is where the front of the tires are closer
together than the back of the tires, like a person who is pigeon toed.
Their feet rotate inward towards each other. Cars are always setup with TOE
IN because, TOE IN, is used to compensate for the
"pull" on the tires created by the car moving down the road.
This is called road drag. Almost all cars are set up with a small amount
of TOE IN to insure that normal deflection of the bushings, and other steering components are taken up so that the wheels
travel down the road with close to zero toe under normal road drag.
TOE OUT is the just the opposite, the front of the tire
is further apart. If your car is in a TOE OUT
situation, it can make your car wander from left to right and it will be
very unstable and hard to control when you are driving it.
CAMBER:
CAMBER
is the inward (toward center of car) or outward tilt of the top of the
tires in relation to the center line of the vehicle. If the tops of the
tires tilt inwards, the car is said to have "negative camber",
if they tilt outwards, it is called "positive camber". The
purpose of CAMBER is to provide the maximum amount of tire contact
between the vehicle and the road during a variety of cornering
situations. The tire can only provide maximum adhesion if all of the
tread available is loaded as equally as possible. Many cars are setup
with zero or a bit of negative camber, and this negative camber helps to
offset suspension deflection and other forces, such as body role, that
tend to cause the steering tires to roll over onto their
sidewalls.
CASTER:
CASTER,
is tough for some people to picture. Simply put, it is where the tires
center of drag is in relation to the upper and lower steering point
linkage. In other words, a car with "positive" CASTER
would have its upper
steering linkage (the upper ball joint) behind the lower linkage (lower
ball joint). CASTER
is measured in degrees and is generally not visible to
the naked eye.
Most cars are now set up with "positive"
CASTER, this helps to return the wheels to the direction the car is
traveling (self centering). This "self centering" action
results in a vehicle that feels more stable and tends to wander
less.
Just like a car with to much toe out, a
car will pull to the side if it has the least amount of CASTER. Too much
CASTER
causes a slower steering response. CASTER
is often toyed with a
bit to help or hinder steering response in a car with or without power
steering.
Front wheel drive cars generally do not
have any CASTER
adjustment, because the wheel offset and toe setting are
much more critical in a car with inherent torque steer tendencies like
most front wheel drive cars have due to their design.
Positive CASTER
also improves straight
line tracking because the CASTER
line (the line drawn through the
steering pivot when viewed from the side) intersects the ground ahead of
the contact patch of the tire. Just like a shopping cart caster, the
wheel is forced behind the pivot allowing the vehicle to track in a
straight line.
Two Wheel Alignment:
The term Two Wheel Alignment is
a process where both front wheels are aligned to provide the best Toe
in, Caster and Camber settings to provide the best all around handling
and tire wear under normal driving conditions.
Four Wheel Alignment:
The term Four Wheel Alignment is
a process where both front and rear wheels are aligned. In a typical Four Wheel Alignment, the rear wheels are checked for toe and
tracking.
In a typical situation the Rear wheel "Toe" is adjusted
by adding or removing small shims between the rear wheel hub and the
rear axle. On our T-Bird's and Cougars it is done buy using offset
bushings.
Tracking is checked with a series of electronic gauges and
the rear axle is check to make sure that it "tracks" properly
behind the front wheels.
On a Four Wheel Alignment, the
adjustments are first made to true up the rear alignment, then the front
is adjusted. Therefore a full Four Wheel Alignment will cost more
because there is a lot more work involved.
NOTE: Getting an
alignment done on a car with worn or defective steering or suspension components is a waste
of time and money. It will NOT correct the instability and poor
drivability inherent to worn steering and/or suspension components.
ANY alignment shop that
tells you that they will do there best to align your car with the bad or worn
parts still on the car should be avoided AT ALL COST!!!!
(Wheel
Alignment 102)
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